Well, the internet is a fine research tool, so I found the review in question: Owen Gleiberman in Entertainment Weekly. Here's the sentences in question:
Would James Bond really be caught dead drinking Smirnoff vodka? Sadly, the very notion of a Smirnoff martini blends all too well into the harsh-grained mediocrity of Tomorrow Never Dies.Sorry, Owen, but yeah, he would be caught dead drinking Smirnoff:
It's a sad, sad day when movie critics become bigger elitist snobs regarding liquor than Bond himself...